Margins

Costing & Margin Strategy

If the cost sheet is wrong, nothing downstream can fix it. We rebuild your garment cost from fabric and labor up, so you know your real floor before you set a price.

The number most brands get wrong

Factory price is not product cost. Landed cost includes fabric and trims, cutting and sewing, wash and finishing, labels and packaging, freight, duty, inspection, and the samples and rejects you already paid for.

Brands that price off the factory quote alone often discover their “60% margin” is closer to 35% once the goods are in the warehouse.

What a real cost sheet looks like

  • Fabric: price per yard or kilo, consumption, yield and waste allowance
  • Trims: zippers, buttons, elastic, thread, interlining, labels, hangtags
  • Labor: cut, sew, finish, wash, press, pack — broken out, not bundled
  • Overhead and factory margin, stated rather than hidden
  • Freight, duty/tariff, customs brokerage and insurance
  • Inspection, defect allowance and sample amortization

Engineering the price down

Once the cost is visible, it becomes editable. Usually in that order:

  1. Fabric: a different weight, width, mill or stock program
  2. Construction: a seam finish or operation that adds cost without adding value
  3. Trims: branded hardware versus stock equivalents
  4. Quantity: where the price breaks actually fall
  5. Factory: the same garment, a better-matched plant
  6. Country: only when volume justifies the move

Targets

Margin Math That Holds Up

Direct-to-Consumer
DTC

Direct-to-Consumer

  • Target 65-75% gross margin
  • Landed cost x 4 is a common anchor
  • Returns, shipping & CAC come after
  • Discounting erodes it fast
  • Price for the promo calendar, not the hero price
Wholesale & Retail
Wholesale

Wholesale & Retail

  • Keystone or better at wholesale
  • Retailer margin expectations set your ceiling
  • Terms and chargebacks are real costs
  • Needs lower landed cost than DTC-only
  • Volume should buy price breaks
Both Channels
Blended

Both Channels

  • One cost, two price points
  • Protect wholesale accounts from your own promos
  • MAP policy and discipline
  • Watch the blended margin, not the best one
  • Plan capacity for both

Questions

Costing FAQ

My factory gave me one number for everything. Is that normal?
It is common and it is not useful. Ask for the cost broken into fabric, trim, labor and overhead. A factory that will not break it out is harder to negotiate with and harder to audit.
How much should I budget for development?
Sampling, pattern work, fabric minimums for samples and shipping add up well before production. For a small cut-and-sew line, plan for development as a real line item rather than a rounding error.
Can I hit my price point at low quantity?
Sometimes — with the right fabric strategy and factory. Often the honest answer is that the price point requires volume you do not have yet, and the first run should be priced for learning, not for scale margin.
Do duties and freight really matter?
On overseas production, yes. Depending on category and country of origin, duty alone can move landed cost by double digits in percentage terms.

Go Deeper

Related Guides

Written from the factory side — the detail behind what is on this page.

How to Cost a Garment Properly
Guide

How to Cost a Garment Properly

Building a real cost sheet from fabric and labor up — including the costs most brands forget.

Read guide
Full Package vs CMT: Who Buys the Fabric?
Guide

Full Package vs CMT: Who Buys the Fabric?

FPP and CMT are the two ways a factory quotes. The difference decides who carries the risk when fabric is late or short.

Read guide
Minimum Colour Quantity and Dye Lots
Guide

Minimum Colour Quantity and Dye Lots

Every colourway is its own fabric commitment, and the dye house sets a floor you cannot negotiate around.

Read guide
How Much Does It Cost to Start a Clothing Line?
Guide

How Much Does It Cost to Start a Clothing Line?

Where the money actually goes in development and a first production run, and how to budget for it.

Read guide

Next Step

Is Your Price Point Real?

Send your cost sheet or a factory quote. We will rebuild it line by line and show you where the margin actually sits.