Development

Product Development & Tech Packs

A tech pack is the cheapest quality control you will ever buy. We turn sketches and ideas into production-ready documents factories can quote, cut and sew without guessing.

What a tech pack actually contains

A tech pack is the manufacturing specification for one garment. Without it, every factory interprets your product differently — and you pay for every interpretation.

  • Front, back and detail flat sketches with construction callouts
  • Graded points of measure with tolerances for every size
  • Bill of materials: fabric, trims, thread, interlining, elastic, labels
  • Stitch types, seam allowances and finishing details
  • Labeling, hangtags, care and content, packing and polybag specs
  • Colorways, artwork placement and print or embroidery specs

Where development usually stalls

Vague sample comments

“Make it a bit roomier” costs you a sample round. “Increase chest 1 inch at full measure, keep armhole as is” does not. We write comments against the spec so each round moves forward.

No measurement discipline

If nobody is measuring the sample against a spec sheet, fit drifts quietly between proto, PP and production. Tolerances exist so you can tell a real defect from normal variation.

Fabric chosen last

Fabric drives fit, cost, minimums and lead time. Choosing it after the pattern is set is how brands end up with a garment they cannot afford to make.

Sample Flow

The Rounds, and What Each One Is For

Most lines need three to four rounds. Skipping one rarely saves time — it just moves the problem into production.

Proto Sample
Round 1

Proto Sample

  • Proves the concept and construction
  • Usually in substitute fabric
  • Fit and silhouette feedback
  • Expect significant comments
Fit Sample
Round 2

Fit Sample

  • Correct fabric where possible
  • Measured against spec
  • Fit session on a live model or form
  • Grading reviewed
PP (Pre-Production)
Round 3

PP (Pre-Production)

  • Correct fabric, trims and labels
  • Approved before bulk is cut
  • Becomes the quality reference
  • Both parties sign off
TOP (Top of Production)
Round 4

TOP (Top of Production)

  • Pulled from the actual bulk run
  • Confirms bulk matches the PP
  • Last chance before shipment
  • Measured and photographed

Deliverables

What You Get

  • A complete, factory-ready tech pack per style, in a standard format
  • A graded spec sheet with tolerances across your size range
  • A bill of materials with suppliers, references and consumption
  • Written, numbered sample comments for each round
  • Pattern and grading guidance where corrections are needed
  • A development timeline tied to your launch date

You own the files. If you move factories, your specs come with you.

Questions

Development FAQ

Do I really need a tech pack, or can the factory work from sketches?
A factory can work from sketches. It just will not work from them the way you expect. Every detail you leave out becomes a decision somebody on the floor makes for you, and you pay for each one in sample rounds, price increases or defects you cannot reject.
How many sample rounds should I expect?
Three to four for a straightforward style: proto, fit, pre-production and a top-of-production check. Complex outerwear or tailoring takes more. Skipping a round rarely saves time — it moves the problem into production.
Who owns the pattern?
Make sure it is you, in writing, before the pattern is drafted. Patterns made at a factory sometimes stay at the factory, which quietly locks you in.
Can you work from an existing garment instead of a design?
Yes, and it is often the fastest start. A reference garment answers more questions than paper does — we spec from it and adjust from there.
What does development cost?
It varies with complexity, but treat it as a real budget line rather than a rounding error: tech packs, patterns, grading, sample fabric at minimum purchase quantities, several sample rounds and shipping. It is also where cutting corners is most expensive.

Go Deeper

Related Guides

Written from the factory side — the detail behind what is on this page.

What Is a Tech Pack (and What Goes In One)?
Guide

What Is a Tech Pack (and What Goes In One)?

The document that turns a design into something a factory can quote, cut and sew — section by section.

Read guide
The Apparel Sampling Process, Explained
Guide

The Apparel Sampling Process, Explained

Proto, fit, PP and TOP — what each sample round is for and how to cut rounds without cutting corners.

Read guide
Points of Measure Explained
Guide

Points of Measure Explained

A dimension, a method and a tolerance. Without all three it is not a spec and nothing can be called off-spec.

Read guide
How to Run a Fit Session
Guide

How to Run a Fit Session

An hour done properly saves a sample round. What to do before, during and after.

Read guide

Next Step

Have Designs But No Specs?

Send us what you have — sketches, a reference garment, photos. We will tell you what is missing and what it takes to make it quotable.